Apples of Love

If the Spanish conquistadors had known what they were onto when they brought tomatoes to the old world in the sixteenth century, they wouldn't have spent the rest of their careers searching for gold, because they had already found it. If any of them had any prescience at all, they would have simply opened a canning facility somewhere in the vicinity of Mount Vesuvius, and begun mining the gold that became known as pomodòri 'golden apples'.

By the time southern Italians began manufacturing pasta asciuta 'semolina pasta' in the late eighteenth century, inovative chefs had already invented dozens of preparations for tomatoes (also referred to pómi d'amore 'apples of love'). So when tomato sauce was introduced to pasta, it was indeed love at first sight. Pasta alla marinara was love at first sight for me, anyway.

But due to restrictions imposed by Mother Nature, we here in America can enjoy fresh, vine-ripened plum tomatoes for only about three months of the year. The rest of the time, we depend on the canned variety.

Of those tomatoes that find their way into cans, foodies and gourmets acknowledge those that come from the region of San Marzano to be the finest. There's a lot of talk about the volcanic soil of Calabria; the intensity of the sun in the region; even the name God works its way into the conversation from time to time. Nevertheless, the Italian government has taken the region seriously enough to give the local growers a D.O.C. (Denominazione d'Originata Controllata, or Government Certification).

But there's a knock-off artist lurking around every Cypress tree, and it wasn't too long before canned tomatoes labeled tipo di San Marzano, 'San Marzano-style' began appearing at Italian delis. The latest craze in the tomato game, is taking the seeds from San Marzano tomatoes, and growing them elsewhere in the world. I'm aware of a California grower who's doing well by marketing his tomatoes as having been grown from "San Marzano tomato seeds."

It is encouraging, though, that for the past several years, American growers have begun competing favorably against their Calabrian bretheren. Muir Glen, in Petaluma, CA., for example, grows wonderful organic tomatoes that are readily available at your local grocery super-store.

But there's a problem that crops up with canned tomatoes, especially if they come in unlined cans: they taste "canned." Tomatoes, being acid as they are, often interact with the metal, and absorb some of the metallic taste.

My Sicilian grandmother (and I'm sure her peers as well) solved this problem by adding grated carrot to her marinara sauce. I've seen some validation of this technique in recipes from Mario Batali, and recently, from Pino Luongo in his cookbook, "Simply Tuscan." In fact, Mr. Luongo goes so far as to include a stalk of celery too.

Here in Connecticut, we're probably two and a half months away from picking the first plum tomato. But wouldn't it be great to go to a farmer's market, and see that someone there is selling plum tomatoes grown from San Marzano seeds.

And here is the most requested recipe from the archives of my first Web site, www.northend.com; my grandmother's tomato sauce. (reprinted from my first cookbook, La Cucina dei Poveri). Buon appetito.

Salsa di Pomodoro
My Grandmother's Tomato Sauce

Ingredients:

Olive Oil
4 Cloves garlic, peeled, and thinly sliced
2 28 oz. Cans peeled tomatoes (preferably San Marzano)
1 Small carrot, finely shredded
1/2 tsp. Red pepper flakes
2 Tbs. Fresh oregano, finely chopped
2 Tbs. Fresh basil, finely chopped
1/4 Cup Flat leaf Italian parsley, finely chopped
Salt & freshly ground black pepper

Preparation:

Heat a large sauté pan over medium heat, then add enough olive oil to coat the bottom of the pan. Add the garlic, and sauté, shaking the pan for about one minute, until the garlic begins to give up its aroma.

Remove the pan from the heat and add the tomatoes. Return the pan to the heat and begin to break the tomatoes with either the back of a fork, or a wooden spoon. Lower the heat to medium-low and simmer the tomatoes to evaporate some of the liquid, then add the carrot, the red pepper flakes and the oregano.

Simmer gently for about twenty minutes, or until the sauce has thickened and the clear liquid from the tomatoes has evaporated. Add the parsley and season with salt and pepper.

Makes approximately 1 1/2 Quarts

Skip Lombardi is the author of two cookbooks: "La Cucina dei Poveri: Recipes from my Sicilian Grandparents," and "Almost Italian: Recipes from America's Little Italys." He has been a Broadway musician, high-school math teacher, software engineer, and a fledgeling blogger. But he has never let any of those pursuits interfere with his passion for cooking and eating. Visit his Web site to learn more about his cookbooks. http://www.skiplombardi.com or mailto:info@skiplombardi.com

---

Serendipity Frozen Hot Chocolate

Serendipity frozen hot chocolate is a signature dish at the... Read More

Easy Gourmet Recipes You and I can do!

So, you don't think you can find easy gourmet recipes?... Read More

Sweet & Sour Fish

Sweet and sour fish is one of the most popular... Read More

Weight Loss Recipe: Veal Mango

Just because you are watching your weight does not mean... Read More

Vegetarian Gourmet----Meatless Makeovers

Three years ago I decided to go "meatless." It wasn't... Read More

Rowan Jelly (Mountain Ash - Pyrus aucuparia)

Sharp and sour but sweet and succulent all at the... Read More

Mouth Watering Memphis Style Pork Ribs

The Memphis Style pork rib is one of the most... Read More

Easy No-Roll Pie Crust

EASY No-Roll Pie Crust3 cups flour1 teaspoon salt2 teaspoons sugar2/3... Read More

Paella, The Most Famous Spanish Dish

First of all, paella is not exactly the dish but... Read More

All-Wheat Superb Rolls

Note: The stone ground whole-wheat flour adds only 1.3 Teasps... Read More

Mediterranean Grilled Vegetable Soup

According to Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) there are five elements... Read More

So, You Have A Crockpot - Now Youll Want Crockpot Recipes

To those of us that don't know, crockpot recipes are... Read More

How to Make Your Own Low Fat Vanilla Ice Cream

Sometimes, when you have set yourself in the weight loss... Read More

Ribolitta: The Italian Way Of Having Your Five Veggies A Day!

Ribollita is a delicious low fat Italian soup, a bit... Read More

Weird Foods Of The World - Chinese

I have eaten some weird and wonderful dishes around the... Read More

Low Fat Salmon Recipes

Finding delicious low fat salmon recipes has just become easier... Read More

Chicken Adobo

This particular recipe is Phillipian. Here are the ingredients you... Read More

Steaks

Eating steak has always been a symbol of prosperity. During... Read More

Thai BBQ or Barbeque Chicken Recipes

What makes Thai BBQ chicken recipes so delicious? It is... Read More

Do I Really Need to Follow a Recipe?

These days, its seems like everyone is looking for different... Read More

Vegetarian Diet Tips: Make Your Vegetarian Diet A Balanced Diet!

The world has opened eyes to the harmful side-effects of... Read More

Weight Loss Recipe: Crustless Quiche

Crust-less QuicheQuick and easy, this meal is great either hot... Read More

Banana Pudding and Vanilla Wafers... the Perfect Crowd Pleaser!

Next time someone signs you up for "dessert duty" at... Read More

Low-Carb Pastry Pizzazz

This delicious treat adds only 1.9 grams of carb for... Read More

Low Fat Banana Toasts

I love bananas for breakfast.I think bananas a convenient food... Read More

Grilling Recipes Give People Tasteful Tremors Just Thinking of BBQ Grilling!

Grilling recipes give people tremors just thinking of the explosive... Read More

Blue Cheese Omnivorous

IngredientsRomaine Lettuce (head $1.29) 1 pound of steak ($10 per... Read More

Weight Loss Recipe: Apricot Chicken

Just because you are watching your weight, doesn't mean the... Read More

Low Carb Recipes Actually Taste Great!

Many people are beginning diets that encourage low carb recipes... Read More

Recipe: Chocolate Modeling Clay

Ingredients:6 oz. chocolate chips5 teaspoons corn syrup1 gallon size zip-top... Read More

Chocolate Velvet Cheesecake

Cheesecake is one of the most popular desserts around today.... Read More

Sweet & Sour Pork (Gu Lao Rou)

Sweet & Sour Pork is the most well known Chinese... Read More

Rice Noodles with Tomatoes and Tuna -A Savoury Gluten-free Alternative to Pasta

Ok. I never thought that the day would come when... Read More